When it comes to transforming the fashion landscape, few individuals have had as significant an impact as Margareta van den Bosch, the iconic first design director at H&M. Known for her pioneering work in making high-low dressing a mainstream trend, van den Bosch not only played a crucial role in H&M’s meteoric rise but also helped redefine how global brands collaborate with renowned designers. Her legacy is celebrated in the newly released book, “Team Maggan: H&M’s First Design Director and Coworkers on Fashion, People, and Possibilities,” which takes an intimate, behind-the-scenes look at the fashion powerhouse’s success through a lens of teamwork, collaboration, and collective creativity.
The Collective Genius Behind H&M’s Success
Though van den Bosch was undeniably a driving force in H&M’s design evolution, she has always been quick to emphasize that the company’s success was never solely down to one person. Even after retiring, van den Bosch continues to champion the idea that fashion is a collective endeavor. The book sheds light on how H&M’s success wasn’t built on a singular vision but rather through the concerted efforts of a diverse team of designers, marketers, and creative minds working together to push the boundaries of affordable fashion.
Throughout the book, testimonies from H&M’s designers, collaborators, and key staff members offer insights into how the company’s infrastructure encouraged creativity from every corner of the organization. The teamwork approach at H&M was unique in the sense that it allowed the individual talents of various team members to shine while still contributing to the larger vision of the company. It was this collective synergy that ultimately allowed H&M to stand out as one of the world’s largest fashion retailers.
Margareta van den Bosch: The Visionary Behind the Collaborations
Margareta van den Bosch’s career at H&M is nothing short of transformative. As the first design director at the company, van den Bosch was instrumental in making H&M synonymous with high fashion collaborations. One of her most groundbreaking achievements was orchestrating the first collaboration between a fast-fashion brand and a designer: Karl Lagerfeld, who partnered with H&M in 2004. This partnership not only solidified H&M’s position as a leading global fashion retailer but also brought luxury design to the masses, showing that high fashion could be both accessible and affordable.
Even in her retirement, van den Bosch remains fiercely dedicated to celebrating the people who contributed to H&M’s success. She continues to highlight that her role was only one part of a much larger puzzle, praising the efforts of her colleagues and collaborators in the book. “It’s never just me,” she said in an interview. “H&M’s success was a collective effort. Designers, marketing teams, and other creatives — we all worked together.”
The Changing World of Fashion and the Rise of New Consumers
In her conversation with Catarina Midby, the author of Team Maggan, van den Bosch discussed how fashion has evolved since her retirement and how the landscape of the industry has dramatically shifted in recent years. One significant change, she observed, is the way fashion shows and events are now attended by more influencers than journalists. With social media reshaping the fashion cycle, designers and brands are now presenting their collections to a much broader and more diverse audience.
“It’s a new world, and you just have to accept it,” van den Bosch remarked, reflecting on the rise of influencer culture. She explained that while live runway shows still have their value, the accessibility of fashion has democratized the industry. “More people are interested in fashion than ever before,” she said. “In the past, there was more of a defined group of people who followed fashion, but now, everyone can choose their own inspiration and create their own looks.”
This shift toward inclusivity and individualism, van den Bosch noted, aligns with the broader cultural changes in the fashion world. Today, younger consumers are driving trends not through magazines or high-fashion editorials, but by curating their own styles through platforms like Instagram, TikTok, and Pinterest.
The Resale Revolution: Gen Z’s Impact on Fashion Consumption
One of the most significant developments in the fashion industry is the rise of resale and recommerce, a trend largely driven by Gen Z shoppers. According to the 2025 Recommerce Report by OfferUp and GlobalData, domestic resale is projected to grow from over $200 billion to an estimated $306.5 billion by the end of this decade — a 34% increase. For van den Bosch, the growing popularity of resale culture is a reflection of how the fashion landscape has become more sustainable and personalized.
Midby, who worked closely with van den Bosch at H&M, emphasized how the younger generation is reshaping the way they approach fashion. “It’s not like before when you bought a coat and wore it until it fell apart,” she noted. Today’s consumers are more likely to purchase items that they will wear for a period before reselling them online, making fashion consumption more fluid and less centered on the traditional idea of ownership.
This changing mindset about fashion consumption has not only led to the rise of resale platforms but has also created new opportunities for brands to engage with consumers in ways that weren’t possible before. It’s an exciting time for fashion, where the boundaries between consumer, creator, and brand continue to blur.
Inspiring Future Generations of Designers
For van den Bosch, her legacy isn’t just about H&M’s success — it’s about inspiring future generations of designers, especially men’s fashion. While she has always had a deep appreciation for men’s clothing, she believes there is much more to explore in this area. In their interview, van den Bosch and Midby discussed how men’s fashion has evolved and how exhibitions, like the “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style” at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, could inspire a new generation of men to embrace bolder, more daring styles.
“We should explore more about men’s fashion and inspire them to be more daring through everything — media and exhibitions,” van den Bosch said. She sees exhibitions like the Met’s as important cultural touchstones, encouraging people to embrace fashion as a form of self-expression.
The Power of Collaboration: A Book About H&M’s Legacy
Despite van den Bosch’s reluctance to write a biography, Team Maggan offers an intimate portrait of her career, as well as the people who worked alongside her at H&M. The book highlights not only van den Bosch’s collaborations with designers like Lagerfeld but also showcases the roles of the marketing teams, merchandisers, and even photographers who were integral to H&M’s success.
The essence of Team Maggan is about the power of teamwork. As van den Bosch notes in the book, “It’s not just the designers; it’s the entire team — marketing, creative, and even logistics — who made this happen.” The book captures the spirit of collaboration that has been central to H&M’s ability to stay relevant and successful in a competitive industry.
Looking Forward: The Future of Fashion
As the fashion industry continues to evolve, Team Maggan serves as a reminder of the importance of collaboration, creativity, and inclusivity. The industry is no longer about a singular vision but about the collective efforts of many people working together to create something that resonates with consumers across the globe.
For Margareta van den Bosch, the future of fashion lies in embracing diversity and encouraging everyone to find their own path. As the industry becomes increasingly digital and accessible, it’s clear that the role of creativity, community, and collaboration will remain central to shaping the next generation of fashion.
